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JOURNALS // Prikladnaya Mekhanika i Tekhnicheskaya Fizika // Archive

Prikl. Mekh. Tekh. Fiz., 2021 Volume 62, Issue 4, Pages 114–123 (Mi pmtf134)

This article is cited in 2 papers

Assessing the frequency dispersion influence on the solitary-wave interaction with a constant sloping beach

O. I. Gusevab, G. S. Khakimzianovab, L. B. Chubarovab, D. S. Dutykhcd

a Institute of Computational Technologies, Siberian Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, 630090, Novosibirsk, Russia
b Novosibirsk State University, 630090, Novosibirsk, Russia
c University of Grenoble-Alpes, Grenoble, 38058 France
d University of Savoy Mont Blanc, Chambery, 73000 France

Abstract: This article focuses on the effect of frequency dispersion on the wave run-up height and the characteristics of the surface waves reflected from a coastal slope. Calculations are performed within the framework of nonlinear dispersive and nondispersive shallow water models using the original boundary conditions on a moving shoreline. A case study of the problem of solitary wave run-up on flat coastal slopes with parameters close to the characteristics of one of the Kamchatka bays shows that the nondispersive model overestimates the maximum run-up and amplitudes of the reflected waves by 10–20%.

Keywords: surface waves, water-land boundary, runup on shore, nonlinear dispersive shallow water equations, boundary conditions on the water-land boundary, numerical modeling.

UDC: 532.5+519.63

Received: 20.04.2021
Revised: 20.04.2021
Accepted: 26.04.2021

DOI: 10.15372/PMTF20210411


 English version:
Journal of Applied Mechanics and Technical Physics, 2021, 62:4, 624–632

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© Steklov Math. Inst. of RAS, 2024