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JOURNALS // Prikladnaya Mekhanika i Tekhnicheskaya Fizika // Archive

Prikl. Mekh. Tekh. Fiz., 2006 Volume 47, Issue 3, Pages 3–11 (Mi pmtf2143)

This article is cited in 1 paper

Breaking of waves of limiting amplitude over an obstacle

V. Yu. Lyapidevskiia, Z. Xub

a Lavrent’ev Institute of Hydrodynamics, Siberian Division, Russian Academy of Sciences, Novosibirsk, 630090
b Institute of Physical Oceanography, China Ocean University, Qingdao, 266003

Abstract: Homogeneous heavy fluid flows over an uneven bottom are studied in a long-wave approximation. A mathematical model is proposed that takes into account both the dispersion effects and the formation of a turbulent upper layer due to the breaking of surface gravity waves. The asymptotic behavior of nonlinear perturbations at the wave front is studied, and the conditions of transition from smooth flows to breaking waves are obtained for steady-state supercritical flow over a local obstacle.

Keywords: homogeneous fluid, supercritical flow, waves of limiting amplitude, wave breaking.

UDC: 517.958: 531.327.13

Received: 14.07.2005


 English version:
Journal of Applied Mechanics and Technical Physics, 2006, 47:3, 307–313

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