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JOURNALS // Trudy Matematicheskogo Instituta imeni V.A. Steklova // Archive

Trudy Mat. Inst. Steklova, 2023 Volume 322, Pages 111–123 (Mi tm4330)

This article is cited in 1 paper

Nonlinear Effects and Run-up of Coastal Waves Generated by Billiards with Semi-rigid Walls in the Framework of Shallow Water Theory

S. Yu. Dobrokhotovab, V. E. Nazaikinskiiab, A. V. Tsvetkovaa

a Ishlinsky Institute for Problems in Mechanics of the Russian Academy of Sciences, pr. Vernadskogo 101-1, Moscow, 119526 Russia
b Centre of Integrable Systems, P. G. Demidov Yaroslavl State University, Sovetskaya ul. 14, Yaroslavl, 150003 Russia

Abstract: By coastal waves we mean time-periodic or nearly time-periodic gravity waves on water in a basin of depth $D(x)$, $x=(x_1,x_2)$, that are localized in the vicinity of the coastline $\Gamma ^0=\{D(x)=0\}$. In this paper, for the system of nonlinear shallow water equations, we construct asymptotic solutions corresponding to coastal waves in two specific examples. The solutions are presented in the form of parametrically defined functions corresponding to asymptotic solutions of the linearized system, which, in turn, are related to the asymptotic eigenfunctions of the operator $-\nabla \cdot (g D(x)\nabla )$ that are generated by billiards with semi-rigid walls.

Keywords: nonlinear shallow water equations, run-up on coast, billiard with semi-rigid walls, global asymptotics, Bessel function, Airy function.

UDC: 517.9

Received: January 5, 2023
Revised: January 18, 2023
Accepted: April 19, 2023

DOI: 10.4213/tm4330


 English version:
Proceedings of the Steklov Institute of Mathematics, 2023, 322, 105–117

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© Steklov Math. Inst. of RAS, 2024